Builds you should follow: Tim’s RS6 (Project Judas)

If you know very little about Audi’s, you know that the C5 RS6 is quite the looker in stock trim and comes from audi with a twin turbocharged V8 that produces 444bhp and 428lb/ft.

Five valves per cylinder, dual overhead cam, two turbochargers shoehorned into the C5 bay. Ah yes, the more you know. This is the motor nobody wants to maintain after 100,000 miles. Ever. Not to mention the 5 speed automatic slapped on the back of it. Yikes.

Well when you come across a shell for a steal of a deal, sometimes you can’t pass it up. And when you come across a shell you put… an LS motor in it and hope it drives purists up a wall. So far in his build thread there haven’t been many fanboys in protest, as everyone seems to understand that you can’t argue with the results of an LS motor. Not to mention the forum motorgeek.com is comprised of a mature(ish) audience.

 

 

RS6 Launch

 

I apologize a bit, I’ve fallen off and am too anxious to add details and keep going so you’ll just have to look for yourselves.

Build Thread 

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From poor plans to worse…

 After owning the Cressida for a period of time, I’m in love. The FR sedan is a fantastic platform, and I’m sure my next car will be one. But which? The one drawback, in my eyes, to the Cressida as a daily driver is it’s size. By today’s standards, the car has the interior space of an econobox, although the trunk dimensions remain impressive. Good for a drift car, as the huge sedan actually weighs in within 50lbs of the Supra of the same year, but bad for a daily cruiser. Moreover, the X8′s body styling falls into a somewhat awkward transitional period which is not yet appreciated and perhaps never will be: the design language of the ’89 Cressida is too new to be a timeless classic, yet too old to be modern. It shares neither the nostalgic JDM feel of the X7, nor the forever-not-too-outdated looks of the UCF10. For that reason, the dented, scratched, rusted, outright neglected sheetmetal doesn’t lend a beautiful patina to the car as it might to classic eurotrash, it simply makes the car look like what it is: an rotting beater, lumbering and grotesque in form.

What, then, can we take away from this story? Where have I failed, what can I improve upon? I must find an older, more classic chassis. It must be larger, with lines more flowing and eloquent. Ideally, it will have the kind of beauty which is embellished by superficial flaws such as peeling paint, rust, dents, and dings. The sort of car that makes a channel-lock fender flare job look as if it belongs, one that wears a rust hole like a birthmark. The Nissan S30 of family sedans.

But what IS the Nissan S30 of family sedans? Before Infiniti and Lexus, the largest sedans that Nissan and Toyota bothered to import were the Cressida and Maxima / Datsun 810. The MX32 Cressida has the styling, but it’s too small for me. The UCF10 or JZS147 are both fantastic cars, but too new for my tastes. In these cars, the interior is too bland, too 90′s Toyota for me. To my knowledge, Mitsubishi has never and will never make a worthwhile car, and the Mazda 929 only got huge and good looking in it’s last generation. As much as I love Japanese cars, my perfect sedan may not be Japanese, unless I can sell my organs in exchange for the importation of a Japanese market Toyota Crown or Nissan President.

As mentioned before, eurotrash may be my only way out. BMW made the 7-Series, Mercedes the S-Class, and although neither Saab nor Volvo ever produced anything executive enough for my tastes, Volkswagen/Audi did shit out the V8. Obviously, the V8 can be crossed off the list immediately, I could berate it for paragraph upon paragraph, and offend the half-dozen hardcore enthusiasts of the chassis so much that they’ll vow never to read a blog post I have authored again, but I shall suffice to say it’s disqualified from the running due to it’s not being rear-wheel-drive. The 7-Series is definitely a contender, but the first chassis shares too much in common, stylistically, with the newer BMW’s for my tastes. An E23 has the classic feel to it, but the headlights are too reminiscent of the newer 5-series to look truly old school, and the rear end of the car has always bothered me. I’ve never really appreciated the design of BMW’s of these years, and I fear that such a car being owned by myself would suffer a similar fate as the Cressida. They just don’t look good looking bad. And, with that statement, I’m sure you’re already formulating your response to this post. What a fucking idiot I am, Rusty Slammington looked great being a complete and total pile of shit. In my opinion, that’s the biggest problem with my ownership of a BMW: I’d be doomed to live in Mike Burroughs’ shadow, never quite living up to what he had accomplished several years ago. I want this car to be slammed to the ground, and I’ve come to terms with the fact that anything I own will probably wind up looking ratty. The combination of those two things, with a BMW of that vintage, means that such a vehicle would be destined to be viewed as a cheap imitation of Rusty, a halfhearted attempt to replicate former excellence.

Through the process of deductive reasoning, we arrive at Mercedes. The S- and E- class sedans of the late 70′s and early 80′s are gorgeous pieces of machinery, well-built, well-appointed, and well out of my price range. All but the biggest rust-bucket pieces of shit are worth a few thousand bucks at the minimum, and they’re far rarer than I would like. This makes finding one I like more difficult, and it means that whatever I do wind up with, it’ll probably be a shame that I wound up with it. The Cressida is easily rationalized, I saved that car from the scrapyard, so a prolonged death from the unnatural cause of scraping across mountainous Michigan asphalt is a more dignified fate than any alternative ending that car may have had. Believe it or not, even I have a conscience about this stuff.

Obviously, deductive reasoning has failed us. So, the car I’m looking for is neither reasonable nor prudent to own. Of course! It must be English. Nobody knows how to design an eloquent, flowing big body sedan like Jaguar. If only the rest of the company was as good as their art department. In the wheel fitment community, the Jaguar XJ is often forgotten, but I believe the curvaceous sedan has plenty of potential to look phenomenal coasting inches off the ground, floating on whatever rims tuck into the fenders nicely. The reason it’s a long since forgotten platform is likely the same reason it’s perfect for me: you don’t see them on the road anymore. To expand on that thought, you don’t see them on the road anymore because they’re such piles of fuck that various problems keep them immobile for large portions of their life. Many of these cars are doomed to collect dust underneath piled up boxes of family photos, Christmas decorations, and grandma’s china collection in the corner of the garage. A similar effect can be seen in the Cressida community: we find stock shells in great condition because a string of blown headgaskets has kept the car off the road for years at a time, preserving the rest of the car from normal wear and tear. This works even better with Jaguars; they were originally valuable enough that people feel obligated to properly store their $800 cars. On Craigslist, I found one Series II Jaguar that had been garage kept since 1990 after a head bolt snapped during routine maintenance.

Like the Cressida, the stock XJ drivetrain holds little appeal. I believe an engine swap would be a necessary prerequisite to Jaguar ownership. Jaguars all have automatic transmissions, and luckily the view that General Motors made the best automatics of the day is an opinion shared by Jaguar as well as Toyota. Although any XJ6 I find will probably have a bullshit Borg-Warner slushbox, the TH350 and 400 were used in higher-trim XJ’s, and with a factory Toyota bellhousing and custom converter, it is possible to mate a JZ to a TH- trans. This being Michigan, old GM parts grow on trees, and I could probably find a couple old Turbo-Hydromatic transmissions for sale without leaving my neighborhood. With a cheap and reliable automatic sorted out, this means that you can buy a JZ swap without a transmission, a huge relief, as this opens up your options considerably. From the looks of it, a rear-sump motor is needed for the conversion.

As we all know, JZ swaps can be made to run once you connect about four wires into the engine harness, and a car of the vintage that we’re talking about should neither know nor care what engine is inside it, wiring wise. Presumably, a solution to the speedo cable has already been sorted out for a TH400 swap, and the tacho from an XJ6 should be looking for six sparks per 720* of revolution, although an MSD adapter may be required for it to see the spark from coil-on-plug ignition. Running a new fuel pump and dedicated relay with new wiring would be required for the swap, and could eliminate some potential headaches with the ancient British Leyland wiring. Charging and starting systems are relatively universal, so replacing the Jaguar plugs with the appropriate Toyota ones should be the extent of the work required on that front.

From the looks of it, such a project is definitely possible. The owner of Driftmotion appears to have built an Aristo 2JZ powered 1990 XJS Coupe. Fortunately, talk is so cheap it’s probably all I can afford at the moment, until I get the S14 out of my driveway at least, and I’ve made some headway with the Cressida. But now I know where my heart lies, and I can keep an eye out for deals to pop up.

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Getting up to speed with the h8mvmt X8

It’s been ages since I wrote a proper blog post, so here’s a few words regarding my recent developments on the X8. I believe when I left off last, the Cressida was sitting on S13 lower control arms and knuckles, KYB struts for an S13 in front and an MA70 in the rear, and Tein S-Techs for an S14 all the way around. Since then, I’ve made a few changes. Warning: copious use of instagram within this post.


After several months of being immobile, the Cressida has finally resumed it’s role as my daily driver. First and foremost, I would like to thank the companies that made this possible for all of their help along the way. Era-1, Battle Version, and Fortune Auto were invaluable resources to me throughout my project. The three of these companies provide a level of customer service and support that is hard to come by in our field anymore, and of course the products they sell are not only well-engineered, but also built to a standard of excellence that you can rely upon the strength and durability of any of their offerings on the street and in motorsport alike.

My previous suspension setup was compromised when the left-hand steering knuckle snapped at the steering arm. Instead of simply replacing the knuckle, I elected to upgrade the entire suspension, making improvements based on knowledge gleaned from my previous effort.

At the core of these improvements lies a pair of Era1′s cast steel drop knuckles. Being of one-piece cast construction they cannot fail in the same manner that my previous set did, and the casting process insures that each set shares the same geometry that has been proven on, among others, Walker Wilkerson’s Formula D car. The ‘drop’ aspect of the knuckles is that the pickup point for the lower control arm has been moved down 1.8”, providing geometry correction which is essential on a car that has been lowered as far as mine. Of course, Era1′s knuckles have been designed to be used on an S14, which necessitates several changes when moving up from S13 gear.

The ’14 knuckle utilizes a stronger 32mm shank, up from the 30mm diameter shank used on the ’13, so the wheel bearings must be changed accordingly. A junkyard-spec conversion utilizing J30 hubs with homemade spacers underneath to correct for a difference in offset is possible, and chinese hubs are available on ebay, but I opted for genuine Nissan hubs. As before, the wheel bearings have been replaced with ARP hardware designed for a Mitsubishi Lancer Evo, to remain consistent with Toyota’s M12x1.5 thread pitch.

The M12 bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle had been upgraded to M14 for the S14 (makes that change easy to remember, right?), so while it’s certianly possible to use sleeves to take up the difference in diameter or drill out the holes on the struts, I decided that it would be an appropriate time to upgrade to coilovers from Fortune Auto. Of course, ordering coils for such a car is no easy task, but the skilled staff at Fortune are able to build coilovers to nearly any spec that you come up with, so in under a month I had a set of Fortune 450′s (similar to BC type-BR coils, but made to Fortune’s standards) which had been revalved in-house in Virginia with one-off ultra-digressive valves, modified from those used in their 510 line for use in my shocks, to work in perfect harmony with up-rated 12 kg/mm front and 10 kg/mm rear springs.

Instead of the weld-on tubes for normal Cressida suspension, Fortune supplied me with front lower brackets for an S14, and they gladly shortened the rear shocks by 40mm to help me achieve my desired ride height without needing to sag spring or pull collars. Cressida owners will be happy to know that shortly after my set was produced, Fortune decided to ditch the ill-conceived 450 / Comfort line of coilovers, and began developing a JZX81 / MX83 application for their famous 500 series coils.

Finally, the ’13 and ’14 do not share the same taper angle for the balljoint shank, so you must swap balljoints when changing knuckles. Instead of simply replacing the balljoints in the S13 front lower control arms with energy suspension polyurethane bushings that were currently on the car, I went to the local junkyard and grabbed a pair of J30 lower control arms, which are identical to those of a ’14. The X8 chassis appears to have less room in the wheel wells than a 240sx, and with steering modifcations it’s common for the angle to be limited by the tire fouling against the chassis in the rear of the well at lock, so I planned on pulling the control arms forward with shorter tension rods.

The Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings I had installed in the ’13 arms on the car would have bound badly once I pulled the control arms forward, so I cut the control arm off before the bushing, and had chassis tube ends welded on so that I could use a heim joint for the inner pivot instead of a bushing. I sourced Summit Racing heims, Seals-It dust shields, and FK racing chassis tube ends from Summit, and McGill Motorsports of the UK was able to ship me a set of 5/8” to M14 high-misalignment spacers quickly at a surprisingly decent cost. In addition to the tube ends being welded in, I had them box the lower section of the control arm.

Moving on to the rear of the car, I dropped the stock open differential, and brought it to a local shop along with a MA70 Supra clutch-type LSD. Two days later, I had a heavily shimmed clutch diff in a MX83 housing, ready to bolt up into my Cressida. A stud-conversion for the rear cover from Xcessive Manufacturing made reinstallation a breeze, and their urethane bushings are sure to hold it firmly in place.

The rubber in the stock suspension arms had deteriorated over the years, and everything was seized in place, making adjustment impossible. Not to worry, Battle Version sorted me out with one of their first full sets of arms for the MX83 chassis. Quick adjustment, light weight, and a name present on the rear window of many top-level drift cars made choosing Battle Version a no-brainer, and they worked quickly with me to resolve some issues I had with their traction arms (the design had yet to be finalized when I ordered mine, so my Cressida was their ginuea pig).

Unfortunatley, installing those arms took longer than expected due to the poor conditon of my car. If your car is anywhere as old and rusty as mine, expect to spend plenty of time under the car with a pneumatic cutoff wheel, air chisel, and in the worst cases, an oxy-acetelyne cutting torch. Count on replacing the cam bolts which adjust camber and caster as well. I found out the hard way, if you go into this job unpreparred, you could be stuck without a car for longer than you’d expect.

Once the car was put together with it’s new suspension, it became clear that I’d have to make some more modifications to get it out of the driveway. Most obviously, the 1.8” of drop at the knuckle and the short front struts intended for use with weld-on-tubes instead of an S14 bottom bracket gave me an extremely low ride height.

Hammering inside the wheel well was needed, and the wire harnesses on both sides of the car had to be re-routed clear of the tire. For good measure, the fender tubs forward of the strut tower were cut out, and the surrounding metal beat out of the way. Downsizing the tires from 205/50R17 to 215/40 freed up crucial bump travel, but put the oil pan precariously close to the pavement.

Furthermore, because of a geometry change on the new lower control arms, the stock tension rods were now far too long, pushing the wheels back in the well. Xcessive Manufacturing, once again, came to the rescue with a sturdy yet affordable skidplate, and adjustable tension rods of a simple design which were easily cut shorter and re-welded. The longer lower control arms also required longer inner tie rods, so my first-gen Subaru Legacy inners made way for AE92 Corolla parts.

And there we were. One day, I went to the parts store, picked up some tie rods, threw them on the car in about a half hour, and everything was finished. Relatively unceremoniously, I was able to pull the Cressida out of the driveway and take it to work after countless weeks of hitching rides with my little brother. All the suspension bits work flawlessly, and the ride quality of the Fortune coilovers is surprisingly good considering the car rides with the skidplate and frame rails just a few fingers off the pavement, and as  far as I can tell the valving was developed with little more than educated guesswork on Fortune’s part. Of course, there were a few kinks here and there… I had to find a way to keep the fusebox dry inside of the fender to drive the car in the rain, and my Oni-Kyan combined with horribly wrong front toe settings caused my already marginal front tires to give up the ghost about two weeks after I resumed driving the car.

After resolving that with a new pair of tires and a driveway alignment using paper, sharpie, a bubble level, and a measuring tape, the car drives nicely. Now, I’ve left town and am on vacation in Cape Town, South Africa, but when I return I’m sure I’ll find more work to do to the Cressida. I’m told that this year we will have local drift events into October, so despite not being able to make the event on September 3, the morning after my 21st birthday, I should be able to get the car sorted out in time to make the last event of the season. The biggest obstacle that stands in my way is the partly-functional A340E automatic transmission currently shifting my X8, which I must replace with a reinforced R154 5-speed before the car is worthy of sliding. Stay tuned for updates.

 

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Not much to do in South Africa in the winter, so here’s pictures of graffiti.

All pictures are taken in and around Kalk Bay, Cape Town. The cars here are mostly shit, so I focused more on the scenery. Within ten minutes of stepping out the door after arriving in town, I witnessed an EG Civic with Canibeat stickers and fake wheels. Fuck my life.

I’m shooting with an old Pentax A 28mm prime lens  adapted to my Digital Rebel XTi, and editing with UFRaw & GIMP.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Coils cost two whole cars? This shit ridiculous.

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THEY SAY WHO DAT

Congratulations on the new car, Tito. Nice progress from stock in the first weekend of ownership.

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Ronal Pentas 16×8 +11 in gloss white

Wheels are powdercoated. Thank you Q.C. Coatings (www.qccoatings.com)

I also have procured a parts car (1987 Audi 5000CS Quattro) to begin my motor build that will result in raping your slow as fuck subarus.

<3 Daniel

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random shot

quick snap while steven was having #familysedanproblems, in the ham.

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Don’t steal a fellow drifter’s girlfriend if he drives a family sedan and you can’t tandem.

At a recent drift event, which I believe to have occurred somewhere in florida, based on how shitty the nissans look, this incident happened during tandem:

Now, I’d be psyched on an X8 hitting an S13 in tandem and disabling it any day of the week, but the backstory makes it so much better. Our hero in the X8 used to bring his girlfriend to every event he drifted at, until this bitch left him for this nissan driving ass nigga who also attends the same events. This particular day, homeboy with the 240 brought the girl to ride along in the nissan while he went door-to-door with our protagonist. Luckily, fate conspired in Toyota’s favor, and the kid with the nissan spun out on a run where he was leading, giving the family man his perfect opportunity for revenge by simply… not braking quite fast enough.

And how sweet his revenge was. As soon as nearly three tons of japanese steel, Florida panhandle redneck, and chinese wheels collided, trading rustoleum spray paint as distasteful as it was hastily applied for the highest quality gloss black two-stage urethane enamel Toyota had to offer in the late 80′s, the girl in question flipped the bird… our hero returned the gesture, and without skipping a beat, kept drifting, while the nissan was left stranded on track, on account of the FMIC being ruptured. Apparently, the entire Florida drift scene knew what was going on between the drivers, judging by the crowd’s enthusiastic reaction.

Another video:

Story courtesy of the fine gentlemen of JZXProject.

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Streetsweeper

image

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